Of the NT, some adventures, some ramblings ...

[Tracy]

My latest adventure has taken me into the true outback (I reckon anyway!); Mataranka, Roper Bar, Katherine and surrounds and a quickie to Darwin.

All in all I did 4000kms up and down the Stuart Highway in 3 weeks; what a flipping boring stretch of road and a waste of 11 hours! I’m still completely blown away by the size of this country….

what I do to stop falling asleep up and down the Stuart Highway

I have to admit that part of my travels and new experiences involve a certain addition to my life.

He’s a mango farmer and wait for it..a Kiwi! All I’m going to say is that my time in Alice is not going to go as fast as I would like it, but that I am the happiest I have been in many, many years!

One of the things I have always been interested in is trucks. Big ones. And here in the Territory I reckon you find the biggest ever! To keep me from going completely bonkers during these long drives, I’ve learnt to take pics of the road trains as they pass me – not something I’d recommend as a rule (they are only a matter of 3 meters from you pulling up to 70tons and I definitely wouldn’t like to get my timing or steering wrong!), but hey! One thing I’m learning about the NT is that things are done very differently to the rest of the world!

I love road trains!

At the moment it’s coming to the end of The Dry and I simply HAVE to experience The Build Up and of course The Wet. I have been a frustrated farmer for many years of a past life in South Africa, and I simply love the farm I now call home during any spare days I can get away from Alice.

Farming here is very, very different to anything I’ve experienced in Africa. This commercial mango farm has 53 000 trees – and only 4 people work on it! Not a lazy, screaming, useless body in sight at any time of the day and night. No compounds to give grief, no security hassles and no-one to hassle you. I left the bicycles outside the house the whole time, even when we were away in Darwin, and guess what? Not stolen! No-one ever locks a house either…and you feel 100% completely safe in the middle of absolutely nowhere. Something that is going to take a while to get used to. Productivity on the farm is also way above what I’m used to. Everyone knows what to do and simply does it.

mango trees being irrigated

Mataranka has a huge amount of history for such a small dot on the map (250 people in it – 251 during school holidays!). I have snorkeled Bitter Springs River up and down until I started looking like a piece of pandanus palm leaf!, lazed in the thermal pool at the Homestead, watched the free (yes, free) movie there 4 times about the book “We of the Never Neverâ€. I have traveled to Roper Bar where the salties have free reign and even walked bare foot across the causeway to the horror of my mates – I even slipped in the river and still wasn’t taken by a croc (I would give them indigestion!) Even in the height(?) of winter, it is still warm; 25 in the day while it was only 2 back in Alice…

early morning cycle on the farm

The Territory is a very large place and no-one asks too many questions of you. You are free to be who you want to be, pretty much where you want to be it. Yes, there are the restrictions of Aboriginal areas and the social issues that follow on from that (and I have to be honest and say I have no time for the problems. So much guilt and so much playing of the system; I’m simply over it. Perhaps another debate for another time, but believe me, living and working with them in Central Australia and reading books and speaking to people? I’m over it all…).

(Those of you interested must read "We of the Never Never" by Jeannie Gunn and "Balanda" by Mary Ellen Jordan)

don't beleive EVERYTHING you read! Well, you know what I mean...I hope!

The NT has to be one of the last true wilderness areas in the world; largely untouched because of it’s harshness and legends (crocs being only one of them).

This is NOT a place for everyone. Other than in Darwin, life is hard, but also easy and laidback if you want it to be that. As much as I am enjoying it (apart from my job which have to be honest about, but that is another issue completely), I will still never be a True Territorian. I’m too old to become so laid back and develop that typical “couldn’t-care-less†attitude.

Don’t get me wrong, people here are very caring and helpful if you ask for it; mateship is very strong out here, and a man’s word is taken at face value and people work on that.

I still couldn’t swap it all for life in a big city…

Roper River with the crossing just above the rapid

I managed to cadge a few kayaks and take my daughter paddling down the Katherine and Roper River (croc infested; I’m going to be dobbed in!) I swam across to Edith Falls with water pythons in the water with me (not sure how to describe THAT experience!), spoken to the most off-the-wall old buggers about EXACTLY how do salties operate, learnt a few fishing tricks (still to be put into operation!), and tried to catch wallabies on the farm late at night after a few glasses of red wine, sluiced cane toads and snakes out of open irrigation pipes and watched the most amazing sunrises and sunsets.

I have felt safe and at home everywhere I have been.

my daughter going off to find a croc...

in my absolute element!

ag, shame...seriously, freshies are no problem. Cute little teeth. They eat NO meat; only fish. Just make sure you know the difference between these guys and their brothers....

I fell in love with Darwin. I had heard so many negative things about it through the NTNews (typical journalists…), but was so surprised by how clean it was and how beautiful the sea was; yes, I paddled my feet in the ocean for an all to brief spell.

the ocean at sunset...

yes, I will snorkel here...

I even found a diveshop and had a long chat in there! I didn’t go to the big mall in Darwin (Casuarina) due to time constraints, but the places we did go were all very acceptable to me. Yes, late at night there ARE teenagers hanging around looking to cause , but hey! Where doesn’t that happen? I found it to be a vibrant city, but not busy like I can remember the centre of Durban (West Street in the good old days) to be. Lots of speciality shops, a Bunnings(whooHoo!), I got my scuba tanks tested and certified there by some fantastically helpful people, even left my credit card with them after hours and they in turn left it with a dodgy looking take away place; but all perfectly safe for 48 hours!

Again, it WAS definitely hot and steamy, and I can just imagine how uncomfortable it will be in summer. I know of people that have to keep cleaning the mould off everything because it’s so humid!

There are heaps of rich people that live in the marina and have big fancy houses and big boats in Darwin; that tells you something.

part of the marina at Cullen Bay

The few schools I managed to go past all looked really nice from the outside, and I got good feelings about them. Even the main beach, Mindil Beach, on a perfectly wonderful Saturday morning had 3 people on it!!! I unfortunately haven’t made it to the Mindil Markets..

Mindil Beach on a Saturday morning - where IS everyone? (not that I'm complaining, mind!)

I want to go back there and do some diving, snorkel around the rocky bays, yes, I believe it CAN be done safely if you have common sense and perhaps even a spotter on a deck chair. (the fact that we saw, I kid you not!, 3 salties cruising past us in Fannie Bay does not deter me!)

I have done a fair bit of traveling since we got here close on 11 months ago now (good grief), and I could find no gut instinct to say that I could not live in Darwin.

I’ve said it before, Utopia does not exist, and there are heaps worse places to live than Alice or Darwin, or even Mataranka. If I had my way, I would transfer tomorrow to Darwin.

I went into Katherine quite a few times to do shopping and I found it very adequate (even heard Saffers speaking Die Taal!), clean and liveable.

I popped into the Katherine Baptist Church one Sunday and made some contacts to go with the ones I’ve made at the Baptist Church in Alice.

There are many wonderful people in the Middle of Nowhere…

closing irrigation valves at sunset

Travelling in Aus has become very, very expensive with the petrol price going through the roof. And because of the immense distances, it hits you hard. The grey nomads (apologies to Bob!) however, are still out in force over The Dry – they are everywhere! I have seen the most amazing caravans in size (huge flipping things!) and shape (people buy old busses and drive around for the rest of their lives in a BUS!).

Nowhere have I come across road rage, a hooter (in 11 months!), or know of anyone that has had a car stolen or broken in to. It happens, but I’ve almost forgotten that it does.

Have I mentioned I like road trains?

All too soon I had to sadly return to my visa conditions. I had a chance to do some very quick exploring to make a list of places I want to spend time in every time I get back there. At this rate, I haven’t got enough years to fulfill the list! Kakadu, Litchfield, Pine Creek, speciality places in Darwin, did I mention Bunnings?, too many rivers to explore, too many road trains to photograph.

this one at least was a captive subject!

I’m trying to find work for my daughter on one of the stations out that way so when we go to the farm she doesn’t get too bored. She’s really good with kids and getting stuck into something, and I think it would be fantastic for her to experience a station. She’s really keen. My daughter has “osmosed†into an Aussie; sounds like one, looks like one (one of the nice ones, of course!) and has developed into a very different, dare I say “better†kid than if we had stayed? The freedom and independence she has here has made the world of difference. She has been away from me for nearly 6 weeks. Flown more airmiles on her own than Richard Branson and has had a fantastic experience at World Youth Day; she’s sleeping all day tomorrow instead of going to school!

We have to keep very focused with her to keep her work ethic up (that Territory thing I mentioned earlier I suspect), but it’s only for 2 more years and then she’s off to Uni.

In many ways I feel my life has been given a huge kickstart (something to do with that Kiwi, I reckon!), and even though the future picture is a bit fuzzy, I can see some plans coming to fruition; albeit in New Zealand at a very later stage.

I’ve said it before, but I’m not sorry I went through all the heartache and stress of getting here. My stress re: PR and personal issues isn’t over by a long shot, but no ways would I ever go back.

I’m not sure where my future will lead me, but if it’s the NT, I would be very happy.

I have changed I think in many ways. I have learnt to greet people, not growl at them, I have learnt to take things a little less seriously (time doesn’t mean too much here in the NT!), and I am trying not to be too hard on myself when things go pear-shaped. I know I see things in a different light to 11 months ago.

There is a thread about being addicted to the Forum; hmmm, I am an addictee, I’m afraid. This place has been my inspiration, source of help and I’ve made some great friends here. But I think it is time I (tried?) to move on (away?). I’m not going to leave completely and I’d be very happy to help with info if I could; bearing in mind it may not be entirely correct depending on how many G&T’s I’ve had (keeps the mozzies away during The Wet – well, I’m sticking to that story anyway…!)

I spoke quite some time ago about letting go of the past in favour of my new life, and I need to do that by becoming a “recovering forumiteâ€. I don’t know everything – far from it! So I may have to ask a blonde question every now and then.

I look forward to seeing some special mates from Howick here in Aus as soon as possible.

And I hope everyone here on the Forum finds what they’re looking for.

You only live once....

Cya!

PS Try being a Saffer living in Aus and having a Kiwi mate and being a rugby supporter! Eish!

Disclaimer: not one G&T was consumed in the creation or delivery of this post….(honest!)

[Numbawun]

Hey Tracy - that was GREAT !!! Feel like I've been on a holiday.......

Cheers

Cheryl

[de Jager familie]

Hi Tracy

That was very nice to read, it makes the place more real the more I read.

Nita

[Bob]

Great post, Trace . . . . . one of the best I've ever read, if not THE best!

Right from the heart.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, the Territory isn't for the faint-hearted, but if I were a 'thirty something' kick starting Life off in Australia, I'd be going to the Territory or western Queensland. . . . . Australia's Outback.

It's a different way of Life there . . . . much like the bush in South Africa or Southern Rhodesia back in the 1950s when all was functioning correctly . . . . . no murders, robberies, muggings, etc.

Sure . . you don't have your beauty parlour just down the street with the supermarkets and shoe shops all within 5 mins of home, but it's a place where you take a bloke's word for real.

If he says he'll be there on Thursday, he will be there on Thursday or he'll be dead!

It looks like I'll be up in Darwin, anyway, in late September, sailing one of those boats out of the marina to a slipyard for rubbing down and repainting. Ginnie's cousin has a boat there and needs a hand.

Anyhow . . . . . it's been good to read your posts over the past couple of years, and also very glad that Australia has really got under your skin and you like the joint.

I must admit, the Territory either weaves its magic into your very soul and you fall in love with it, or you can't wait to get away from the place.

Hope you find life just as interesting in New Zealand in the future.

So long, mate!

[Nilo]

Trace you are a STAR excellent post!!

I have traveled the immi road with you all be it through the forum. Can't believe it's nearly a year ago!! I've experience areas you visited in Australia through your eyes. You have my admiration!! You GO Girl!!

As you might have noticed, I'm a recovering forum addicts as well. I understand the moving on!! I understand the moving away and living our new life to the fullest. And as you I also love this Country warts and all.

May God be with you and your daughter, my forum friend. It's a small world, who knows, maybe just maybe we'll meet each other one day.

PS: Edited to add, I'm feeling quite tearful at the moment. Not sad tears, happy ones!!!

Edited July 22, 2008 by Nilo

[GerhardinOz]

Nice pics

[TheBs]

Hi Buddy - great post - yeah, a bit of a tear jerker from the heart. I really hope we get to experience all that we can, just a small four letter word standing in our way at the mo. We've already plotted on the map our travels to Alice....

Miss you guys stax

[Queensland Girl]

Tracy- a KIWI nogal!!!

My bestest friends are KIWIS and you gotta love them.

The NT is the most amazing place, and your post was so,so great.

The one in Katherine talking the Taal was probably me. Did she look bedonderd? In the drankwinkwel I was bedonderd cause they wouldent sell me my wine without me producing my drivers license.

I wish you all the happiness in the world! You have been an inspiration to many here. Please don't disappear!

[Guest Bronwyn]

Thanks for a great post Tracy. I will miss you on the forum. Maybe you should say farewell but not goodbye?

Bronwyn

PS. A mango farmer? You go, girl!

[somarie]

Hi Tracy

It's been good to read about your experiences again and although you are trying to recover from your addiction (the forum that is of course, not the G&T), please peep in once in a while and tell us about your experiences! And of course the pros and cos of mango farming etc.

I agree, let this rather be a farewell than a goodbye!

Have a good one!

[Dax]

Excellent post, and all of the best.

Should you need more info, just give me a hoy here on saaus or GT. I'm working on an article for teachers especially, and methinks i'll dedicate it to you.

Cheers,

Dax

[Dreams]

Great post! Fantastic photo's.

[MannyT]

Hi Tracy

It is always a pleasure reading your posts, and this one was no exception.

Pleased to 'hear' that you may have found happiness in the NT (but with a Kiwi??). I know that you are a teacher but in you opening paragraph, did you mean a quickie to

or in Darwin.

Everything of the best for the future (with your Kiwi mango farmer).

Keep well!......and enjoy!

Kind regards

Manny

[Die Viljoens]

Wow thanks for the post it unbelieveable!! Thanks for all the photo's we would love a holiday like this!!

Ursula